Open Circle Lab
A New Class of Leather
After years of studying ancient techniques and parchment leathers, ECCO Leather is looking to the future with APPARITION. Transparent leathers used to be unmanageably hard and non-resistant to water, but APPARITION is the first soft and transparent cow skin leather with lasting pliability and protection from moisture. Made from full-grain bovine material, this range with spectral qualities has gradations of softness that easily move and mould. It’s truly alive.
I wanted to work with the translucent qualities and the unctuous texture of the material to create couture pieces that enhance the natural beauty and variation of this artisanal leather. It feels, looks and behaves unlike any leather I have previously worked with which made it both fascinating and challenging to create shoes out of. Much of the final outcome was dictated by what the leather wanted to do naturally for instance the ruffle florets as simple circles sewn in two places and left to fall naturally and the colour way was dictated by which dyes would be absorbed by the leather.